Building an Ice Rack

I don't really like to borrow gear. I worry too much about losing or damaging it. As such, it has never been difficult for me to justify new purchases to myself. 

22cm BD Express Ice Screw

First on the list for a couple beginner alpinists is a couple ice screws. They're pricey so I only bought two for now. My climbing partner also picked up two and our climbing friends have full racks. Four is enough for some glacier outings and top roping ice routes and we can borrow a couple this season if we need. 

After reading a bunch of reviews it sounded like there was really only one type of screw worth buying. The Black Diamond Express Ice Screw seems to be everyone's favourite by a landslide. I picked up a 22cm and a 16cm. I figured everyone needs at least one 22cm screw on their rack for building V-threads. The length won't get in the way on a glacier either but I didn't want to start out with a rack of long screws because I expect to hone my skills a little on some waterfall ice. 

16cm BD Express Ice Screw

From what little I've experienced so far, I've learned that on waterfall ice even a screw as short as 16cm can be too long. If you're a weight nazi, the longer the screw, the more it will weigh. One renowned ice climber in our area recommends nothing but 13cm screws. He has also soloed multi-pitch routes that would absolutely destroy me so what works for the pros might not be the best for the newbs. 

If I find myself climbing and needing more ice anchors I'll probably buy a few more 16cm screws before adding any more diversity to my rack. To me 16cm seems like the most versatile length. Long enough to sink in deep and hopefully hold a little better but short enough that a lot of the ice out there should be able to handle it without the screw hitting rock.