Elk Lakes

Elk Lakes can be accessed from either the Alberta side as an easy backpacking trip or the British Columbia side as a nice day hike. We planned to make it a two night backpacking trip but ended up returning after one night due to some less than pleasant weather.

In 2008 the province was undertaking some major construction work in the Kananaskis Lakes area. Paving some parking lots that were formerly gravel and heavily rutted and filled with large potholes. Resurfacing some of the roads in the area.

We arrived early in the morning and found the parking lot we wanted to use half under construction but geared up and left anyway. About a kilometer in I started to feel really nervous about leaving my car in that lot if construction crews were going to be working there so I dropped my pack, left Jenn and decided to go back and move my car to the next closest lot.

Unfortunately the next closest lot was getting repaved and was covered in fresh oil so I had to go all the way to the lot for the Mount Everest interpretive trail. I left the car and jogged back to the car. Jogging in heavy hiking boots actually isn't all that much fun. It probably took me the better part of 45 minutes to return to Jenn but I was nicely warmed up having tacked an extra 4km on to the start of my hike.

The trail starts on utilities service road from the Elk Pass parking lot. It climbs a short hill before returning to the  power line cut. The trail follows the cut line for a couple kilometers before turning off into the forest and dropping down to run parallel to a small creek through a nice little valley.

After crossing the border into British Columbia the trail will gradually work it's way downward until reaching Upper Elk Lake. The most strenuous part of the hike is probably traversing the shore of the lake to the far side.

All our maps had indicated that the camp site would be at the far end of Upper Elk Lake but upon reaching the far end we found a BC Parks sign indicated the campground was still another 2km down the trail. From here the trail passes through a mixture of rocky gravel flats from the meandering creek and dense and damp forest that I love.

We arrived at the campground early enough to set up the tent and still have plenty of time to explore before dinner so we decided to head up to Petain Falls. I had actually chosen the trip for the falls. It was Jenn's first backpacking trip and I knew she loved waterfalls and I wanted it to be a hike with something special for her.

We set up camp, made some tea and headed up to check out the falls. Petain falls have the second highest vertical drop in Canada and are some very impressive looking falls. We took a bunch of pictures and headed back to camp for dinner.

The next morning we woke to some light snow which quickly turned to rain. I had planned for the second day to be a short day hike to the falls but since we'd already done that we decided to pack up camp and head out rather than hang out in the rain.

The hike out wasn't the most fun I'd ever had. It's never fun hiking in full rain gear. Fortunately the rain stopped shortly before we reached the Alberta - British Columbia border and we were able to take a layer off.

Despite the inclement weather we had a great time and Jenn has caught the bug. This will be the first of many trips together.

Picasa Web Album
GPS Track (.gpx)

Pickle Jar Lakes

The Pickle Jar Lakes are a scenic set of lakes nestled in a high alpine valley that is surprisingly easy to get to. A great hike for beginners or hikers that don't want to strain themselves too much. Unfortunately the ease of access and the allowed over night camping does tend to attract the crowds so it's not a great hike if you're looking for some peace and solitude.

The parking lot is about 50m south of the trailhead along Highway 40. The path will immediately begin to climb but the rate at which you gain elevation is very manageable. While the trail will follow a path basically parallel to a mountain creek in the valley floor you won't be able to see it or get too close to it.

After a couple kilometers the trail will turn to the north and the you'll encounter the most significant climb of the trail. It's short but steep with poor traction. In the rain it could be a bit slippery. Once at the top the trail will turn to your right and ascend some more along a ridge through some trees. You'll encounter a rockband that can be scrambled over easily as the first lake comes into view.

Backcountry camping is allowed around the lakes so you may see several tents. Beyond the first lake you'll find three more lakes. The further back you go, the more alone you'll become as a surprising number of hikers simply stop at the first lake. Even though we passed dozens of hikers on the trail we only encountered a handful at the last lake where we stopped for lunch. The last lake has the soft shorelines with plenty of mossy ground to sit on so I can't figure out why anyone would site on the scree covered shores of the second lake.

If you download the attached GPS track and plan to use it as a route, note that we did leave the trail on several occassions to hunt geocaches. If you have no interest in the geocaching simply stay on the trail when the track appears to depart from it as strange angles. The true hike length is probably a couple kilometers less than the track would indicate as we took a significant detour at the end across the highway to find another geocache.

On our way out we encountered a group in their early 20s lugging a packed cooler, overloaded packs and all with Big Gulps in their hands. The trail really is that easy but that's also an example of who you can expect to be sharing this trail with. However we did choose the trail because it was a hike my mother, whom is not an adept hiker, would be able to join us on.

Picasa Web Albums
GPS Track (.gpx)

The Fortress - Headwall Lakes to Chester Lake Loop

The Fortress is an intimidating summit when viewed from Highway 40 in Kananaskis. From the east it's nothing but huge vertical rock faces. Fortunately you can pretty much walk right up the backside with only one section of easy scrambling right at the end.

We only planned to hike to the Headwall Lakes that day and had no intention of climbing The Fortress. The terrain is just so appealing that it continually drew us forward until we found ourselves so close to the summit that we had no choice but to top it out.

Park in the Chester Lake trailhead parking lot. It's a big lot and popular trailhead. The Chester Lake trail departs the lot from the back left corner of the lot but you'll want to find the Headwall Lakes trail on the back right side of the lot. The trail starts out as an old road that serves as a cross country ski route in the winter. Follow the trails in a generally southeast direction. Eventually you will cross a fair sized creek on a wide bridge followed by a moderate climb for a couple hundred feet. At the top of the hill you'll find a single track trail heading into the brush on the left. It should be marked with a cairn.

Take this easy to follow trail. It will lead you up the valley. The only portions of this part of the trail that are even remotely strenuous are the when it climbs the headwalls before each lake. Once you reach the second Headwall Lake the vegetation will disappear and the valley will open up providing great views of The Fortress ahead.

Follow the trail as far as you can but it will disappear after a while, then just stay near the bottom of the valley floor. If you venture too far up the sides you may find you'll have to return to the base as rock bands will interrupt the sloped sides of the valley periodically and can prove difficult to navigate.

At the end of the valley the goal will be clear. Ascend to the col on the shoulder of The Fortress. From the col there should be a clear trail beat into the scree. The summit is only a couple hundred meters from the col so you should be there in no time. Just a few meters from the top you'll need to scramble up a small ledge but it shouldn't be an obstacle. If you're afraid of heights you may not want to get too close to the edge as the far side of fortress is nearly vertical.

To return we recommend going through Chester Lake. The route is a little shorter and we prefer to make a circuit when we can. Drop back down to the col on the shoulder of the summit. From there descend on the opposite side you came up. The scree is good so the descent should be fast and easy until you reach the heavier talus at the bottom. It's a narrow valley with a clear exit so head that direction until you can pick up a trail.

Once off the talus the trail becomes nice dirt trail that's easy on the joints. You'll be at Chester Lake before you know it. From here you can detour to the north to see the elephant rocks but that's better left for another trip to fully explore that valley as well.

After Chester Lake the trail widens and twists its way through the forest back to the parking lot. It's an easy trail that allows you to cover ground fast. We hadn't planned to do the full circuit so we returned to the car just as the sun set and it was dark by the time we pulled out of the parking lot. We drove back to Canmore along the Smith Dorien Trail and have never seen so much wildlife in one trip. There were moose, elk, deer, bears and porcupine along the road. A perfect way to end a spectacular trip.

Picasa Web Album
GPS Track (.gpx)

Pocaterra Ridge

I've decided to repost a few old trip reports from other locations that I've posted in the past. We did the Pocaterra Ridge back on August 16, 2008.

The Pocaterra Ridge is one of the premier ridge walks in the Canadian Rockies with a great rewards for the effort.

I recommend utilizing two vehicles and doing the hike from south to north. Leave one car at the parking lot at the north end of the ridge and drive south to the Highwood Pass parking area. From past experience, there's a better than 50/50 chance that you'll encounter big horned sheep on the highway so keep your eyes on the road.

Head northwest from the parking lot along the wide gravel interpretive trail. Within a hundred paces you should encounter a single track boot beaten path on the left following a slight depression. After a couple hundred meters the trail will turn left and begin to ascend through the trees. The trail is clear and easy to follow.

You will pass a small tarn but you probably won't want to linger as the local population of black flies was overwhelming. Above the tarn the trail will lead you into a large amphitheater with a large cirque to the south leading to Grizzly Col and Little Highwood Pass and Pocaterra Ridge to the north. From here most parties follow the easier route up the ridge to the first summit but we traversed to Little Highwood Pass in search of a geocache hidden there. As we found the geocache we were rewarded with an extra close encounter with a very large big horned sheep that seemed slightly upset that we were on his path. After much snorting and shifting he eventually circled around us and continued his journey while we pushed straight up the side of the mountain to the first summit.


 The ascent from Little Highwood Pass to the first summit is much steeper and looser than the more popular ridge ascent so unless you really want to stand in the col or are looking for the geocache, I'd recommend taking the direct route.

We stopped at the summit of the first peak and enjoyed our lunch. From here your route is obvious as the trail will follow the ridge over three more distinct summits before dropping back into the valley. In an emergency there are a few steep trails descending to the east that would allow you to flee the ridge in a hurry if you had to but I wouldn't recommend the route unless you find yourself chased off the ridge by lightning.



As you follow the ridge you will have beautiful views of everything from Highwood Pass to Elbow Lake and Pass, back to the Kananaskis Lakes and Mount Indefatigable. Our day was scorching hot with not a cloud in the sky which led to every member of our party, save one, running out of water while still on the ridge. Every since that day I've increased my load from 2L to 3L. There is no water to be found anywhere on this hike until a creek crossing near the very end.

The ridge will gradually descend as you follow it until near the end when you re-enter the trees. From here the descent increases and you'll lose altitude quickly. The trail will eventually cross a creek and then empty onto the highway slightly west of where you should have left a vehicle. A short 5 minute walk along the highway will take you back to your car.

Picasa Photo Album

GPS Track (.gpx)

Chester Lake

Chester Lake is a very popular hike in Kananaskis off the Smith Dorrien Trail. It yields amazing scenery with very little effort.

Park in the Chester Lake trailhead parking lot. It is a huge parking lot that is well marked and easy to find. It's opposite the Burstall Pass trailhead. You can follow the Smith Dorrien Trail from Canmore if you like but it's a dusty bumpy road that can be slow going when traffic exists. Otherwise take Highway 40 to the Kananaskis Lakes Road. Watch your speed as the limit is 50 kph and the rangers do activity enforce the limit. A few minutes down the Kananaskis Lakes Road you'll pass Pocaterra Creek and arrive at the junction with the Smith Dorrien Trail. Head northwest for 20 minutes to the Chester Lake parking lot.

The trail departs the parking lot at a clearly marked trailhead, complete with outhouses and a large information board. The trail follows some old cut-lines that serve as cross country ski routes in the winter. The trail can seem a little confusing as it branches and twists but don't worry. As long as you generally keep turning right and heading uphill you'll get there. All trails will eventually get you there and none is significantly worse than any other. The climb never exceeds moderate and even those sections are brief.

It won't take long for the trail to change from an old cut line to a nice boot beaten path through the forest. It's a lush forest with plenty of wildlife. Before long you'll break out of the trees into a high alpine meadow at the base of Mount Chester, which you will skirt to Chester Lake.

Too many people stop at Chester Lake and it's hard to blame them as it is a beautiful lake. The trail follows the west shore of Chester Lake and there are several branches heading off to the northwest towards the valley of three lakes between Gusty Peak and Mount Galatea.

The trail we followed up the valley was thin and not heavily used but we were rewarded with an amazing creek cutting it's way through the earth with several small but pretty waterfalls.

The Elephant rocks are a quirk left from the last ice age. Huge rock formations deposited by the glaciers. It's fun to climb up and around the rocks. From here there is a quick and obvious trail straight back to Chester Lake. From the lake you can retrace your steps back to the car or take any one of the well defined trails back.

Picasa Web Album
GPS Track (.gpx)

Barrier Lookout

Barrier Lookout is a simple hike and allows for an easy summit with only moderate effort. The trail starts in the large parking lot at the Barrier Lake dam. The trail is the road blocked by a gate, crossing the dam.

The path is uninspiring as it really is just an old road climbing through the forest to the shoulder ridge of Barrier Mountain. The grade is moderate and the hike is easy and boring for the most part. If you make it to the point where the road becomes an actual trail you'll be rewarded with views Mount Baldy and Barrier Lake. If you've made it this far, don't stop as the trail finally starts to get interesting. The path will narrow and climb steeply to the top of some bluffs on a shoulder below the fire lookout. There are some interesting rock formations here, along with a brass cap. It's a popular place to sit and lunch.

From the rocks you have the option of following the ridge to the south and making a loop out of your hike or continuing west up to the summit and the lookout. It's an easy ascent with great views towards Mount Yamnuska and the Bow River Valley. The lookout at the summit is comprised of a couple buildings, an outhouse and a helipad. They are not for public use and signs ask you not to disturb but it's probably okay to sit on the edge of the pad to eat your lunch. From the peak you have decent views to the west towards Heart Mountain.

Retrace your steps to return to your car.

Picasa Web Album

Mount Indefatigable

Mount Indefatigable is nestled between the Kananaskis Lakes and the summit offers great views of both lakes along with towards Three Isle Lake and South Kananaskis pass to the West and the steep valley holding hidden lake and a distant Fossil Falls.Mount Indefatigable and its neighbor Mount Invincible were named for warships destroyed by the German navy in the battle of Jutland in 1916. 

You cannot spend any time in the Kananaskis Lakes area and not be tempted by relatively easy looking summit overlooking the area. The false summit at the southern end of the massive is an easy ascent but the true summit to the north requires some moderate scrambling to summit. Our hike took the classic route around the back side to the north summit with a ridgewalk to the south summit before descending back down the shoulder. 

The hike starts at the Upper Kananaskis Lake parking lot at the end of the Kananaskis Lakes Trail near the Interlakes campground. Follow the Kananaskis Lakes trail to the north over the spillway. Almost immediately after turning to the west you will pass a narrow trail on the right side. This is your trail. The trail will begin a moderate climb, crossing a small creek before it becomes apparent that you're working your way up a ridge on the shoulder of the mountain. As you break out of the trees you'll start to enjoy views of Lower Kananaskis Lake on your right and a large gully on your left. 

The steep slope on the left will give way to rock walls. Enjoy the views but don't get too close to the edge. As you climb the shoulder ridge the trail will eventually return to some trees where the trail will fork. The left branch leads to the south summit while the right branch is the better path for reaching the north summit. 

The trail will traverse the slope to a high tarn and you'll cross a creek at the outlet. You'll find yourself in a large amphitheater. Keeping heading straight up the slope to the col to the left of the summit. From the col the sharp ridge to the summit will be apparent. This is where the scrambling begins. The best line will be slightly to the left of the ridge line with plenty of large hand-holds and rocks to use to pick your way up. I foolishly dragged my now fiancée up this route on her first real hike. Never having experienced any similar, the exposure was enough to bring her to hysterics and seriously question the likelihood of her survival. We made the summit but I had one very upset girlfriend. It's not the most difficult scrambling but there is some exposure. 

The scramble to the south summit also has some exposure but should be a cakewalk after the scramble to the summit. From the south summit descend the scree slopes. The slopes were still largely covered in snow during our trip so we lost the trail repeatedly on the descent. We eventually discovered it as it emerged from under a large snow patch. It was a well defined trail so it should be easy to follow if you're fortunate enough to go once the snow has melted. 

After descending the scree the trail should meet up with your route up shortly. From there follow the trail you used to ascend the shoulder ridge to return to your car. 

Picasa Web Album

GPS Track (.gpx)